I was amazed and perhaps a little envious when I learned the niblings are well-versed in international cuisine. I grew up eating ‘Midwest” meals; I never had anything more exotic than Chinese take out* until I went to college. The nieces and nephews, sophistos that they are, eat all sorts of things. I was on the phone with Princess-Goddess the other day when she told me the dishes she and her classmates are going to try to make this autumn. She listed things from Mexico, Thailand, Italy, China, and (of all things!) Ethiopia.** I asked her if anyone was going to make anything French. She paused as if I just said a nonsense word and asked me what’s that. I explained France has a cuisine of its own and once upon a time French cooking was all the rage, the ‘top’ as it were. I even tried to describe coq au vin. She is a good person and I could hear her squirming on the other end of the phone trying to find some nice way to say sooner she’d eat rats at Tewkesbury.
It illustrates a point. Around where I live are restaurants of almost every type of cuisine except French. I guess that sort of food isn’t in favor anymore. Not only isn’t it ate but it’s forgotten. Around these parts, ‘Pan-pacific” foods – along with Mexican – are what people like. Spicy, not savory, is the taste. A few years ago I asked and got at Christmas a copy of Julia Child’s seminal cookbook. I am ashamed to admit I’ve never used it. It sits on the shelf, unopened. The dishes look daunting, complicated and time-consuming and frankly none too exciting. Then there is the matter of getting the ingredients. Indian and Mexican cooking calls for some oddities not found on the shelves at Uncle Albertsons but there are many fine local stores that sell such.
After said telephone call I went on line and searched for “French restaurants in Phoenix”. There are some, it turns out. Curiously, they are all have $$$-$$$$ ratings on TripAdvisor, suggesting French cooking is expensive and/or there is no such thing as a family-owned hole-in-the-wall place serving this sort. More curious: at 7PM on Saturday a few were closed. The top one is ‘Vincents’, which boasts ‘serving fine french cuisine for 35 years’. I hoped to find French classic dishes on the menu but no such luck. What came up is ‘duck tamale with anaheim chile and raisins’ and ‘smoked salmon quesadilla with horseradish cream’ – I don’t remember these in Ms. Child’s cookbook.
It seems I must travel to France if I am ever going to experience proper French food. I wonder if I am hankering for something that doesn’t anymore exist, even in France. For all I know they’ve given up on intricate elegant savory dishes for pad thai and the like. Even if I should find a restaurant that serves soufflés and ratatouille I would probably be kicked out when I ask for hot sauce. Oh the embarrassment.
Do you have a French restaurant near you?
Do you ever make French cuisine?
*Cantonese style, with no sense of ‘heat’ to it. Oh the horror.
**In Ann Arbor MI there is an Ethiopian place where they serve the food on a large thin wheel of bread. You tear off bread bits to use as pinchers to pick up the food. Jolly good fun and oh so tasty.
46 comments
September 25, 2022 at 2:57 AM
DwightW.
Madison Jardin is near my house , costs are prohibitive and cuisine is accurate. If I want French I go to Manhattan or Orleans.
September 25, 2022 at 2:58 AM
Anonymous
Maison Jardin
September 25, 2022 at 6:48 AM
Urspo
Another report of French cuisine = $$$. There must be some modestly-priced French restaurants?
When I go to N.O. I eat Cajun with lots of nice spice.
September 25, 2022 at 3:56 AM
Jean
Here in France it still exists! And good it is, too. We cook French style food frequently, although it’s probably more Franglais than French.
Chillies have, however, taken over the world, which is a shame because I can no longer eat them. Even in France a little chilli gets snook in here and there, which is a shame as most things taste better without all that heat, imho.
September 25, 2022 at 6:51 AM
Urspo
Thank you (or should I say merci?) for saying so. I now wonder if it is a generational preference? When French cuisine is discussed here, most folks (the younger ones) sort of poo-poo it as fuddy-duddy, not ‘hip’.
Curious, the photos of Vincents, the French restaurant here in PHX, the patrons are all old/white and look ‘rich’.
You are current about the chiles, they are everywhere it seems. Here in Arizona one has to look hard to find something to eat that doesn’t have some.
September 25, 2022 at 4:43 AM
Ron
No French restaurants here in the Rehoboth Beach area where I live. Of course there are much seafood eateries (crabs!) and such. Occasionally some will offer hamburgers and there is one very successful Italian restaurant but mostly the only variance we have from the ubiquitous seafood selections are the Mexican restaurants and lately even an Indian restaurant.
September 25, 2022 at 6:52 AM
Urspo
Oh! to have local seafood to eat! None of that here, worse luck!
September 25, 2022 at 6:11 PM
Ron
Lots of seafood here of every type imaginable. Ironic since I don’t like seafood of any type. Nada.
September 25, 2022 at 5:41 AM
Paul Brownsey
“A few years ago I asked and got at Christmas a copy of Julia Child’s seminal cookbook. I am ashamed to admit I’ve never used it. It sits on the shelf, unopened. The dishes look daunting, complicated and time-consuming and frankly none too exciting.”
The recipes in the Sunday newspapers in the UK have the same effect on me. There’ll be a photo of something that looks really appetising and I’ll start to think of making it and then I run down the list of ingredients, only to learn that adding a handful of ompobompo seeds* at the simmering stage is crucial, and I have no idea what ompobompo seeds are or where to get them.
* My imaginary name for the ingredient that fancy chefs love to floor you with just as you think you might be able to manage the dish they portray. And if you DO track ompobompo seeds to earth and buy some, you can’t win because the recipes never specify ompobompo seeds again, and next week the crucial ingredient is allograta puree.
September 25, 2022 at 6:55 AM
Urspo
You got that right. Back a few years I will ripping recipes out of old “Gourmet” magazines. I skipped over the ones that had ompobompo and its like in it. This was always asterisk as *Can find in a speciality store. Really now.
I concur even if you find some after a teaspoon use you have a lot left of little to no use.
September 26, 2022 at 9:37 AM
Jean
French cookery doesn’t have to be fussy and complicated. There are plenty of typical French dishes for cooking at home. Think Rick Stein rather than Julia Child. In fact you can eat traditional French dishes for a very modest price everywhere in France, it doesn’t have to cost a fortune. Maybe there’s an opportunity for someone to open a sensibly priced French restaurant chain in the US, instead of pretentious places aimed at just the well heeled.
September 25, 2022 at 5:45 AM
David Godfrey
There are a couple in Alexandria, one we found had the kind of hybrid creole you describe – my comment was it was good but NOT FRENCH! French was the first real study for me in cooking (as it should be.) So yes from time to time, I do cook in that style. You should still go to France, the penguins love it there.
September 25, 2022 at 6:57 AM
Urspo
Last year I took a video course on cooking basics. There was a lot of French words/dishes made. Curious that none of these ‘now you can make it yourself’ recipes seemed interesting to make. It was good for technique but not for use.
It felt like learning formal language only to learn no one actually speaks that way.
September 25, 2022 at 6:34 AM
Old Lurker
Well, if you can’t find a restaurant perhaps it is time to make coq au vin at home? If only you had an appropriate cookbook…
Is it fair to say that being snooty about vin is a holdover from the French?
September 25, 2022 at 6:59 AM
Urspo
Making coq au vin is on my bucket list. It turns out I have several versions to make it. Ms. Child’s is the most complicated, and it is daunting. The ‘easier ones’ I can imagine some nebulous critic condemning as not a proper coq au vin. I still think I would want to douse it in habaeneros so no real point to make one that is complicated.
September 25, 2022 at 5:26 PM
Old Lurker
I agree with Will Jay: don’t wait for your bucket. I am sure you have vin on hand, and a handsome fellow like you should have no problem obtaining coq. As for the ompobompo seeds, this site suggests you might try “WinCo Foods” or the “Green Goddess House of Herbs” to purchase small amounts in bulk. (The latter sounds particularly intriguing. Perhaps it is the same store beside the child care centre at your office?)
September 25, 2022 at 6:52 AM
Lori Hawkins
I love to see children so excited about good food.
We do not have a local French restaurant, but our favorite local place is Farm to Table with a French trained chef/owner and the food is amazing. I think the quality of ingredients used are what make food exceptionally delicious.
September 25, 2022 at 7:00 AM
Urspo
yes yes yes I would rather eat local foods in local recipes.
Save the French dishes for whenever I get to France
September 25, 2022 at 7:01 AM
Debra She Who Seeks
I agree that French cooking is no longer considered the pinnacle of cuisine as it was in the 1950s, but in the world of baking, French patisserie is still right up there as aspirational dessert making.
September 25, 2022 at 7:09 AM
Urspo
Since I don’t eat dessert this aspect of cooking escapes me. I am ignorant, but I thought it was the Austrians who were tops in pastries?
September 25, 2022 at 7:32 AM
Debra She Who Seeks
Other European countries have their claims to baking fame too, of course, but I think the French take the cake here, so to speak.
October 4, 2022 at 9:49 PM
Richard Portman
Haha. My mom would have said that Vienna had the best, but that was when she was young and happy. She loved Vienna.
When i was going through puberty, she discovered Claudia Roden who is very famous and you all should know about her.
I had to leave. This is what i have to say about haute cuisine.
September 25, 2022 at 7:29 AM
rjjs8878
There at many French restaurants in Denver with most being high end. There are also a number of French bakeries, so a fresh croissant is always available.
September 25, 2022 at 9:32 AM
Urspo
I would like a nearby place that makes croissant. There is none to be had here in the desert.
September 25, 2022 at 7:30 AM
Sluggy
I’ve made Julia’s Boeuf Bourguignon more than a few times. There are lots of steps to prepare it correctly but it’s worth the time and effort. I highly recommend it.
September 25, 2022 at 9:32 AM
Urspo
Aye, that dish is on the list to do as well
Time to get cracking and try this one.
September 25, 2022 at 8:37 AM
Dark Robzilla
I’m sure there’s still some French restaurants around here, and I’m also sure they’re too pricey for my taste.
I had French toast this past week. Does that count?
September 25, 2022 at 9:33 AM
Urspo
Only if consumed with French Fries.
September 25, 2022 at 11:22 AM
Linda Practical Parsimony
So, did she get to gush over her future food forays, or did you sidetrack the conversation with the French food? I have eaten at French restaurants a couple of times in Memphis. I grew up eating Southern cuisine.
September 25, 2022 at 12:29 PM
Urspo
‘Southern cuisine’ is a vague broad cuisine to me. I bet there are different types, based on regions, yes?
September 25, 2022 at 12:58 PM
Will Jay
I believe that you are treating Mrs. Child unfairly. When you read the history of the writing of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, the intention was to teach a US audience how to achieve the tastes and flavors with which they may have become familiar with the advent of air travel after the second World War. I don’t think it was ever intended to be Escoffier or La Rousse. Remember that this was in the late 1950s early 1960’s when a shallot was an exotic ingredient and many adults of that time remember when olive oil was so exotic that it was obtained in small bottles from the pharmacist. Also, Mrs. Child and her co-authors under the guidance of their editor, Judith Jones, established a useful standard practice of recipe writing ( list of ingredients, steps, techniques) which endures to this day. Compare this to slogging through a contemporary blog post for a recipe.
A county’s cuisine is what people prepare and eat in their homes. Since Mrs. Child’s co author Simca Beck was from Normandy, you may see a heavy use of butter and cream. At this point I would recommend Waverly Root’s The Food of France in which he classified French food by the fat used in the region. Although this writing is around 100 years old, I believe that it makes sense, particularly now when everyone is all “Farm to Forky.” It also is a bit of a geography lesson in agricultural economics.
I think that the issue that we have is that in the US people are no longer cooking. How many variations of tomato cans do you have to sort through to find plain canned tomatoes? Generally, good food requires the best quality ingredients that you can afford, treating them respectfully, and time and patience.
Sorry about the cranky rant. On a more pleasant note, in addition to Mr. Root’s books, I’d like to recommend Elizabeth David’s French Provincial Cooking or her French Country Cooking or Richard Onley’s Simple French Food or his The French Menu Cookbook.
Get cooking! Bon appetit!
September 25, 2022 at 3:22 PM
Urspo
Indeed my hesitation to try/start is the subjective sense it is complicated and easily marred. But all dishes more or less start this way, regardless of the cuisine. I shall heed your advice and try.
September 25, 2022 at 7:08 PM
Pipistrello
Yes & Yes. I must live in the Land that Time Forgot 🙂
September 26, 2022 at 7:01 AM
Urspo
I recall that’s north of the Land of Nod and just east of The Doldrums.
September 25, 2022 at 10:36 PM
wcs
There is no lack of French food here in France. And we do a lot of French cooking at home. Although I will say that we add more spices to our dishes than most French people care for. Good café and bistro food is everywhere. And all the ingredients are available in one market or another, including the supermarkets.
We’ve just been talking about doing a bœuf Bourguignon or a coq au vin now that the weather is turning to autumn. We just finished off a couscous, one of France’s favorite dishes. And October is the month for choucroute (sauerkraut), a perennial French favorite.
Now I’m hungry.
September 26, 2022 at 7:04 AM
Urspo
Thank you (or is that merci?) for commenting. I was hoping you would do so. I am glad to know French food still exists in France. I’ve heard tell there is a government-based push to keep the French language ‘pure’; is there an equivalent to French cuisine. I imagine ‘no chiles” laws ho ho ho.
You are the last to inspire me to get down the cook book and make some boef b or coq au vin. even if it won’t be good I won’t know as I won’t have anything to compare it to.
September 26, 2022 at 9:18 AM
jefferyrn
There are tons of French restaurants here in the Palm Springs area. Probably because there are so many old people here too. There is one call the French Corner Cafe I have been to for breakfast. It comes complete with a rude French waiter. What more could you want? Coq au vin is the special over the Christmas Holidays. Their website plays lovely French music to boot.
September 26, 2022 at 4:37 PM
Urspo
yes yes yse
When I next visit Palm Springs I shall skip all the Mexican and Asian places to try a French place. thank you.
September 26, 2022 at 9:21 AM
Carolyn
I live just a stone’s throw from you, and agree French food is hard to find around here, but I did have the pleasure of dining at one close to us. It’s in Scottsdale Ranch, and called Voila French Bistro. Owned by chef Jean-Christophe and his wife, Ségolène, it’s the real deal. It’s expensive (IMO), but is a very romantic restaurant to celebrate a special occasion.
September 26, 2022 at 4:39 PM
Urspo
I didn’t know this; I learned something.
There seems to be a common theme to French restaurants: costly. Why is this I wonder? Cost of the ingredients? the time to make things or is it hype to convey $$$ = best food. I smell a rat, as in ratatouille.
September 26, 2022 at 6:13 PM
Carolyn
My mother-in-law used to joke her son wanted to be a chef, but they couldn’t afford the butter.
September 26, 2022 at 10:05 AM
Glenda
French fries and that’s all I have to say about it.
September 26, 2022 at 4:39 PM
Urspo
I hear tell these are really Belgian
September 26, 2022 at 2:08 PM
Betty
There is a French restaurant just down my street; Auberge Pommier, very good but very expensive. I have only ever gone there once, but if I ever feel like going or have a few hundred dollars to spend on French food, I’ll know where to go. On the other hand, we have lots of French and Belgian bakeries which make lovely croissants, tarte tatin, and other wonderful, fattening pastries. The pastries aren’t cheap either but for some reason, every few weeks, I spend money at those bakeries. In any case, I enjoy the pastries, so who cares how much they cost, non?
September 26, 2022 at 4:41 PM
Urspo
Another testimony! (thank you!) about the high cost of French cuisine.
Brother #3 recently reminded me back in my parent’s town there was a French pastry shop, that made petit-feurs for my Christmas treat. Father thought the place costly and Brother #3 says it is over-rated for the prices therein. I recall the cakes as scrumptious
October 2, 2022 at 6:03 AM
Autolycus
I suppose the assumption is that French=fancy-schmancy haute cuisine, complete with silver service, starched tablecloths and all that. It can be, of course, but French home cooking, as in a lot of countries, is at its best about using local ingredients carefully (often finding ways to stretch the expensive stuff further). Plus, these days, the twin revolutions of convenience food and “exotic” styles are just as influential in France as elsewhere. Tired and busy people on their way home from work are more likely to pick up a frozen ready meal from Picard. Or a very common home cooking dish is couscous (from the days when France had North Africa, just as with us, some version of Indian/South Asian food is mainstream).
Of course there are plenty of street corner cafés/bistros offering much more simple stuff than haute cuisine, though that too may be a more mixed bag than “mother used to make”. If you want that, you might go to Elizabeth David’s French Provincial Cooking – quite a few simple sorts of dishes there (lots of slow cooking, IIRC).